Mutawintji

In 2012, I was working in a fairly uninspiring job and was starting to burn out. Being a country boy from Canada, I know the value of spending time in nature as a way to rejuvenate, so I decided to take some time off work to get out of the city and connect with the land. I packed my camping gear into my 1999 Toyota Corolla and headed out west towards no particular end.

As the hours passed, the air got dryer, the vegetation became more sparse, and the earth transformed into that deep ochre of the Outback. When my gas gauge had passed into the last quarter tank, I stopped in a dusty town servo to fill up the car. While speaking to the friendly woman who ran the shop, I thought to ask her if she knew of any beautiful places to camp. She picked a single pink pamphlet off a squeaky rotating stand and handed it to me. The faded name on the paper said ‘Mutawintji National Park’ and I knew that was my destination. With a greater sense of excitement, I thanked her and continued deeper into the flat expanse of the state.

After 16 hours of driving, I finally made it to the turnoff to the National Park. It was another 70 kms down a dirt road far off the main highway. My little Corolla was hardly the right vehicle to undertake such a trip but being a great driver, I went for it anyway. Luckily, it hadn’t rained nor was there any in the forecast so the road was in relative great shape.

The final stretch was a cruisy 70km dirt road deep into the outback. It was pretty isolated but out of the periphery of my vision, I glimpsed multiple dark shapes running alongside the car. I quickly turned to see four emus keeping pace and having a blast. I couldn’t resist the opportunity and had to stop to take the photo of my running mates.

Reaching the camp ground, I was pleasantly surprised to see, though quite basic, it had better facilities then I had expected. There were cold showers, great fire pits with rotating cooking surfaces in every site and even a pay phone to make calls as there was certainly no mobile reception.

The park is run and maintained by the Malyangapa, Wilyakali, Wanyuparlku and Pantjikali people and was the first national park in NSW to be handed back to the traditional owners. It’s dumbfounding to think that this only happened as recently as 1998. It’s now co-managed by the local mob and the NSW National Parks and when you’re there, you immediately get a sense of how precious a place it is.

Being an arid environment, the flora and fauna are as hardy as you would expect, but I was surprised to see how abundant and diverse life was in this Country. Besides emus, that were happy to chill with me at my campsite, there were numerous bird and reptile species, big red kangaroos, and rare yellow-footed rock wallabies.

However, like much of Australia, the park was contending with an invasive species that is destroying the ecology of the endemic wildlife. I was disheartened to see feral goats roaming the park and, with no natural predator, their numbers are a challenge to manage. Thousands of them consume the grasses that the native animals rely on. It’s this very reason why protecting our natural heritage is of utmost importance.

I woke up early every day to catch the pink hues of sunrise and photographed how it played across the parched landscape. The rest of my days were filled with aimless bushwalks around the park, connecting with the indigenous scared sites, and sitting in mediation.

There was one particular place, at the far end of one of the tracks, which has profound significance for me to this day. It was a small oasis of water surrounded by 30 metre red cliffs at the head of Mutawintji Gorge and it’s one of the only permanent standing water sources in this parched land.

As I approached it, a single rock wallaby deftly jumped its way across the uppermost rocks. I was so awestruck by the natural beauty and ancientness of the gorge, I felt compelled to sit on the sandy edge of the water and completely give myself over to the environment. Directly across from me was a single young gum tree growing, in what seemed to be an impossibly harmonious state, in a crevice within the rocky walls. The perfection and silence of it all created an overwhelming sense of peace and oneness. Time stood still and there was an understanding beyond thought of why the indigenous people of this great land care so deeply for it.

Living in the city, we completely forget the actual, living connection we have with nature. We are all an extension of this world and are completely dependent on it. It’s when you get out into these sacred places that you again recognise this inherent truth. But why is it that only the indigenous people of this land can embody that connection to country in their everyday lives? So much to learn, to remember, and to strive for.

 In the Empire Strikes Back, Luke feels a cold presence emanating from a dark cave and asks Master Yoda, “What’s in there?” Yoda replies with these wise words, “Only what you take with you.” This profound pop culture statement best summarises my experience from my time at Mutawinji National Park.

The day following my trip to the Mutawinji Gorge, I left the park feeling fully restored, so much so that, as I made my way home, I decided to drive the entire sixteen hours back to Sydney.

As the day progressed and I drew closer to the city, I became increasingly exhausted, so I pulled over one hour before getting home and slept in my car to get some rest before making the final push. After a number of hours, I woke up feeling somewhat better and decided to set off on the final leg.

However, as I was driving, without warning, an overwhelming wave of anxiety took over me. It was so pervasive that I had to get off the highway and slowly take the long way home. I didn’t reject the experience but merely recalled the stillness and tranquillity of the oasis and resided in that space. The anxiety continued to rage but I was at total peace with it. By the time I had arrived home, its energy had been completely exhausted and I was left utterly spent. But as I exited my car, I was overcome by the entire experience and wept tears of joy and gratitude. The memory of it brings the same up-welling of emotion to this day.

This is gift of peace that I was given from my time on country. But ‘given’ is the wrong word. It is more of a recognition of the silent presence that is always within us. This is the spiritual power of the natural world and yet one more example of its inherent sacredness.

If something so transformative can happen in just a few days in nature, we are surely missing something in our modern urban-based life.